Crochet Sock







How do you make a crochet sock?

Socks are a weird sort of shape and a little daunting to make.  You could of course just crochet a tube and it would probably work perfectly well.  After all, that is how nylon tights are made.

However if you want to make a proper shaped sock it is a little more complicated than that, because somehow you need to fit a heel into it.  But its not as complicated as you think

Basically when you are crocheting a sock, or knitting one for that matter, you are still making a tube.  If you have a sock to hand take hold of it and let's examine it together.

Usually socks are sold flattened from a side view

and that is how we tend to visualise them, but if you look at your sock another way - flattened front to back - the picture becomes clear

As you can see, what you have now is a straight tube, with the addition of a little flap-like pouch which is the heel.


Once you have visualised clearly the structure of a sock in this way, it becomes a lot easier to understand how to make one.

As an example I have included a pattern below for a nice cozy bed sock for you to try.  Once you have made it and got a feel for turning the heel you could quite easily have a go at designing your own

How to Make a Crochet Sock

Pattern for a Bed Sock

For this pattern you will need double knitting yarn.  If you are not sure what the equivalent of double knitting is in your part of the world, choose a plain yarn which recommends the use of 4mm knitting needles.

You will also need a 6mm hook.  This sounds rather a large hook for double knitting but it works well with the stitch pattern.

The sock has a bit of a stretch and so should fit most average adult feet.

Abbreviations

st = stitch

sts = stitches

ch = chain

sl st = slip stitch

dc = double crochet (U.S. single crochet)

htr = half treble (U.S. half double crochet)

tr =treble (US double crochet)

tch = turning chain

RTF = round treble forward.  Instead of inserting the hook into the stitch, insert it round the stem of the stitch from the front and work a treble stitch(U.S. double crochet stitch)  Also known as front post treble (U.S. Front post double crochet) or raised treble (U.S raised double crochet)

RTB = round treble back Instead of inserting the hook into the stitch, insert it round the stem of the stitch from the back and work a treble stitch (US double crochet stitch) Also known as back post treble (U.S. back post double crochet) or raised treble (U.S. raised double crochet)

materials and tools

You will need double knitting yarn (or any yarn that recommends the use of 4mm knitting needles)

You will also need a 6mm hook.  This larger than normal hook, together with the bulkiness of the basket weave pattern stitch will make your crochet sock cosy an

A large blunt sewing needle will also be handy for darning in loose ends

Instructions for the crochet sock

BEGIN AT THE TOE

ch7


Round1

2dc in second ch from hook.  1dc into each of next 4ch.  4dc in last ch

Turn your work so that you are now going to make your stitches into the loops along the bottom edge.

miss the first loop (you have already worked the 4dc into this ch)

1dc into each of the next 4 loops

2dc into last loop

sl st into the first st to join


Round2

1ch, turn

1dc into every st

join with a sl st


Round3

1ch, turn

2dc into first st, 1dc into each of next 6 sts, 2dc into each of next 2 sts

1dc into each of next 6 sts

2dc into last st

join with a sl st (20 sts)


Round4

1ch, turn

20dc

join with a sl st


Round5

1ch turn

2dc in first st, 1dc into each of next 8sts, 2dc into each of next 2sts, 1dc into each of next 8 sts, 2dc into last st  (24 sts)

Join with a sl st


Round6

1ch turn

24dc

join with a sl st


Round7

(Hmmm yes, all these rounds! If you are beginning to feel like you are in a wrestling match, try watching the video for help)

1ch, turn

2dc in first st, 1dc into each of next 10sts, 2dc into each of next 2sts, 1dc into each of next 10 sts, 2dc into last st  (28 sts)

Join with a sl st

If you are changing colour, join in your new yarn now when you do the last sl st


Round8

2ch, turn (the turning chain does not count as a stitch)

htr into every stitch

Join with a sl st into the tch


Rounds 9 & 10

2ch, turn

*2RTF 2RTB*  repeat from * to *  to end of round

Join with a sl st into top of tch


Rounds 11 & 12

*2RTB 2RTF*  repeat from * to *  to end of round

Join with a sl st to top of tch


repeat rounds 9 to 12 until your sock is the length you want it (about 4 more times)


NOW TURN THE HEEL:

If you are changing colour for the heel, join in your new yarn for the final sl st of the last round

1ch, turn.  14dc 

1ch, turn. 13 dc

1ch, turn. 12dc ............ continue reducing by 1 stitch in the same manner until you have 8dc

By decreasing in this way you will form steps along each sloping edge


Next row: 7dc, 2dc in last st then sl st into the "step" 2 rows below.

(see the video tutorial if this is unclear)


Next row: Miss the sl st,  dc into the next 8 sts 2dc into the last st. 

sl st into the next "step"


Next row: Miss the sl st, dc into the next 9 sts. 2dc intothe last st

sl st into the next "step"


Continue increasing in the same manner until you have 14 sts

Fasten off


Change colour at this point if you are using 2 colours.  Go back to where you left off the basket weave pattern.  Pull yarn through and work 14 pattern sts, then 14 htr across the 14 dc of the heel.

Join with a sl st to form a round again.

Continue in basket weave until the sock is th e length you want it - probably about 15 rows in total

Add  2 to 4  rows of plain htr at the top to form a cuff


Darn in any loose ends








 

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